Oil cleansing has become an internet trend over the last several years, for good reason. At its core, oil cleansing is a holistic approach to skincare and seeks to balance oil production, protect the lipid barrier, and deeply cleanse the skin. It veers sharply from the 90's fat/oil-fearing culture that surrounds both the beauty and food industries and it harnesses the power of one type of ancient medicine: plant oils.
One of my favorite things about cleansing oils: they can and should be simple. You don't need a ton of ingredients or an emulsifier, preservative, stabilizer, etc. that are required in many cleansers. In a high quality product like our Vesper Cleansing Oil, the pure plant oils should stand for themselves without all the extra "stuff" and our skin and bodies recognize this. It's the language of nature. In a bottle.
Oil cleansing with a correctly formulated oil cleanser can repair a damaged barrier, balance acneic skin, and decongest/unclog pores. At the same time, using one that is not formulated for inflamed or damaged skin can end up causing more congestion. So, let's dive into some common questions and myths surrounding oil cleansing.
Common Oil Cleansing Questions
How does it work?
I know I know, cleansing with oil?? Doesn’t that make your skin more oily, congested, and prone to breakouts? Nope! Actually, quite the opposite. Oil cleansing works based on the idea that like attracts like, so it roots out and emulsifies with oil-soluble impurities from deep within your pores, pulls debris to the surface, and helps eliminate puffiness, stagnation and inflammation, immediately revitalizing a dull, congested complexion.
Who’s it good for?
Everyone! I have yet to meet someone who can’t benefit from oil cleansing. What can vary is how often to do it and what to follow up with.
Will it make my skin oily?
No. The whole point of cleansing oils is to help balance out your skin's oil production, soothe inflammation, calm irritation, and remove excess oil. That said, if oil cleansing is brand new to you, it may take a couple weeks for your skin to find its balance, so I usually recommend folks try it out a few times and give their skin time to come to its own homeostasis.
If you have dry skin, oil cleansing can help immensely in cleansing while restoring and maintaining your skin's protective lipid barrier. We use gentle, extremely high quality ingredients and very low percentages of essential oils which nourish, calm, and properly moisturize your skin. After cleansing, your skin will feel dewy, soft, and nourished. If you're used to your skin feeling tight and “squeaky clean” after cleansing, it may take a bit of getting used to. But remember you're feeding and moisturizing your skin rather than stripping of its natural oils.
How often do you do it?
This is where we get a little more personal. Some folks, myself included, oil cleanse daily to remove makeup and dissolve oil-soluble debris. Others do well with just a couple times per week. It takes a bit of experimenting to figure out where your sweet spot lies, but I tend to recommend trying it twice a week to start off and adjusting from there once you see how your skin responds. This is a beautiful opportunity to observe and get to know your skin on a more intimate level.
How do you do it?
Dispense a nickel-sized amount into your palm and apply to dry skin, including your neck. This will help stimulate lymphatic movement, supporting your body's natural detoxification processes. Massage well for 1-5 minutes, focusing on any dry, dull, or congested areas. Apply a warm washcloth to your skin and gently wipe away dirt, makeup, and excess oil. Repeat gentle washcloth compressions on the face, neck, and chest a few more times to stimulate deeper cleansing pathways, relieve muscular tension, and to ensure complete removal.
Morning or night?
Either! I prefer using it at night to remove the day’s makeup, sweat, dirt, and to support my skin's natural detoxification processes. The chamomile and lavender scent also makes for a nice pre-bedtime ritual to begin calming your mind and body.
What do I do after?
After cleansing, I always recommend balancing your skin’s pH with a hydrosol or toner. While all of our products are balanced for your skin's pH, most tap water isn’t and since that’s what you’re rinsing with, this is an important step to protect your skin’s acid mantle and keep it hydrated. After misting with your favorite hydrosol and while your skin is still slightly damp, press a few drops of your favorite facial serum or balm into your skin to seal in all that plant goodness.
Common issues with oil cleansing and how to solve them:
Maybe you've tried oil cleansing before and felt like it left your skin feeling
- oily
- congested
- not very clean
- more acneic and inflamed
Often, this is due to the type of oils being used. For blemish-prone and acneic skin, you want to use a formula that's high in linoleic acid, as acneic skin is lacking in this essential fatty acid, as well as Gamma Linolenic Acid (GLA). Linoleic acid makes up a huge component of the lipid barrier, which is often damaged for those who have true acne. Oils high in linoleic acid and gamma linolenic acid include:
- natural (not high oleic) sunflower oil
- pumpkin seed
- hemp seed
- grapeseed
- rosehip seed oil
So, you want to look for an oil cleanser that includes a high percentage of these oils and others like them.
A well-formulated oil cleanser shouldn't require a second cleanser to remove it. Simply follow the above instructions using massage and a warm washcloth at the very end.
However, it's important that we collectively shift our view of how "clean" skin feels. Your skin is not meant to feel squeaky clean. In fact, that usually means the natural, protective oils of your skin have been stripped, leaving your skin vulnerable to damage, dry, and its microbiome disrupted. Cleansing with any cleanser, oil-based or not, should not leave your skin feeling squeaky clean or tight, but rather soft and nourished.
Have you tried out the oil cleansing method or used our Vesper Cleansing Oil before? How has it worked for you? I'd love to hear from you!